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2013 Retro Cellars “Elevation Old Vine” Petite Sirah, Howell Mountain – 94+WA
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2014 Zuccardi “Emma” Bonarda, Valle de Uco, Argentina – 92JS
Bonarda and Petite Sirah. Two grapes that rarely shine on their own. It’s always interesting to enjoy well-made wines made 100% from these grapes. Petit Verdot, Malbec (somewhat), Semillion, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache and certainly, Petite Sirah and Bonarda.
The Bonarda that’s grown in Argentina has nothing to do with the varietal of the same name grown in Italy. Rather, this is the same grape that’s better known here in the U.S. as Charbono. Hailing from the Savoie area in France it has found a new home in Argentina where it is the 2nd most widely planted (Malbec #1) varietal in the country. It
produces wines that are dark, fruity and bright. According the Jancis Robinson it is perhaps the most “under developed wine resource” in Argentina. Can we expect big things out of Bonarda in the future? Time will tell but, with quality oriented producers like Zuccardi, it seems inevitable. The juicy, brightly acidic wine will pair well with dishes that have sweet or sour profiles. Think BBQ, or pan-Asian.
We sometime encounter some confusion over what Petite Sirah is. It is not, contrary to some, a smaller berried version of Syrah. Though admittedly some Rhone producers covet and make references to their smaller “Petite” Syrah berries. But these are not the same. They are simply small Syrah berries, and notice the spelling, with a ‘y’ not an ‘i.’ Petite Sirah (with an ‘i’) is a cross of Syrah and Peloursin created in France where it is known as Durif. It became known as Petite Sirah when Charles McIver (founder of UNC-Greensborough) imported the varietal to the U.S. in the 1880s. Petite Sirah is known for it’s dark color and intense tannins. It is therefore, best paired with rich, intense foods that have aggressive cooking/seasoning methods. Smoked meats, burgers, steaks (No filets please. Look for something fattier like a rib eye, or short ribs.) will all impress when paired with a nice Petite Sirah.
2014 Zuccardi “Emma” Bonarda, Valle de Uco, Argentina – 92JS
An impressive bonarda with dark berry, walnut, black olive skin, and orange peel. Full body, firm tannins and a direct acidity. Linear and stylish. Drink now.
The Zuccardi family is one of the leading producers of high quality wines in Argentina. The Emma Bonarda comes from two vineyards in the Valle de Uco, a sub district of Mendoza. Like all vineyards in Argentina, elevation is high. The San José vineyard is at over 1,400m and the Paraje Altamira is at 1,100m in elevation. It was fermented in concrete and aged in a combination of concrete and barriques.
2013 Retro Cellars “Elevation Old Vine” Petite Sirah, Howell Mountain – 94+WA – Deep garnet-purple, the 2013 Petite Sirah Elevation is a little closed to begin, giving way to beautifully expressive sandalwood, Indian spices and dried roses notes over a core of preserved plums, blueberry pie and Black Forest cake with a waft of licorice. Medium to full-bodied, it has a taut yet immediately accessible structure of firm tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and earthy. |
