- 2019 Meo Camuzet, Volnay
- 2017 Boillard, Volnay 1er Cru "Brouillards"
One of my favorite villages in Burgundy is Volnay. Uniquely, located high on the slope the village’s setting offers up spectacular vistas of the Cote d’Or below. Not only are the views fantastic, the quality in Volnay is also exceptionally high. As Matt Kramer writes in his book “Making Sense of Burgundy” the high quality is largely from a few factors. One, Volnay is relatively small so there’s not much ‘watering down’ with middling producers (527acres) and the collective commitment to quality amongst vigneron is set high. Volnay is also one of seven villages with more vineyards rated as 1er Cru or Grand Cru vs. ‘just’ Village. Such is the uniformly high quality of the village’s terroir. Still, it remains puzzling to me why top Volnays can still be regularly found and had for a relative bargain. Whatever the reason, I and you, the Burgundy loving public benefit.
The wines of Volnay are often described as perfumed, aromatic, and elegant. Together with Chambolle-Musigny, it’s tough to find another area that can match their grace. This month features two Volnays; one by Meo-Camuzet, another by Louis Boillot. Such is the attraction of Volnay’s terroir that Vonse-Romanée’s Domaine Meo-Camuzet, normally content to work with the attractive vineyard holdings of theirs is now working with Volnaysien grapes for the first time we’ve seen. The wine will show a sophisticated elegance that Meo-Camuzet is famous for with the elegance of Volnay. Louis Boillot is also new to the village. His estate, born into being in 2002, captured old vines and great terroirs from his familial holdings. The wines are made here in a traditional way with the help of Ghislaine Barthod (Louis is conversley her vineyard manager). As one would expect, transparency is key to these wines. Subtle, pure, precise, and full of nuance. Brouillards is a premier cru vineyard with old vines near the border with Pommard from beneath the RN73.
On one trip to Burgundy, the traditional restaurant Le Cellier Volnaysien served as an excellent shelter to warm up in and enjoy a bottle of local wine. While “tasting” we had lunch where we enthusiastically partook in another specialty of the region, Potée Bourguignonne. Our liaison for the day had recommended this place and joined us. She insisted on the Potée and we did not stray. Potée is a dish that is greater than the sum of its parts. Its humble ingredients; ham hocks, russet potatoes, carrots, sausage, and cabbage all simmer together for hours and the result is delicious and hearty without overwhelming heaviness. Add some nice Dijon mustard, crusty bread, a nice Volnay (or two) and the day is set for lunch or dinner.
2017 Boillard, Volnay 1er Cru “Brouillards”
An exuberantly fresh nose offers up notes pomegranate, red cherry and a pretty hint of rose petal. Remarkably, the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied and energetic flavors is even finer thanks once again to the very fine-grained but dense tannins supporting the presently compact and slightly short finish. However, the tannins are ripe and there is good density and thus my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that this will come together in time. ~BH
2019 Meo Camuzet Volnay
A very open nose of cherry, with touches of citrus and sweet notes. A little reduction, the gamey side that emerges will require good aeration at the opening. On the palate, a reserved side, some sharpness due to a rather strong acidity which carries the wine but makes it a little severe. A compact structure, boding well for future aging, precedes a still austere finish that needs to loosen up. This wine lacks a bit of empathy today. But it should ease over the next few years, there is a great starting material just waiting to be expressed.
|
